Skin Science · Under-Eye Area

Dark circles under the eyes and how to treat them

Dark circles have several causes: pigment, blood vessels, thin skin and shadows. Why the cause matters, and what topical and regenerative options can do.

Silk sleep mask, facial roller and eye cream on white bed linen

Several causes

“Dark circles” describes what we see, not why it happens. Dermatological reviews (for example Sarkar and colleagues, Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2016) distinguish several types that often overlap. Identifying which type dominates is the most important step, because each responds to different measures.

TypeWhat you seeTypical cause
PigmentedBrownish toneIncreased melanin, often hereditary or after sun exposure or inflammation
VascularBluish or purple toneVessels showing through thin skin, sometimes with puffiness
StructuralShadow below the eyeHollowing of the tear trough with age or anatomy
MixedCombinationMost common in practice

A simple observation can help: if gently stretching the skin makes the color fade, a vascular or shadow component is likely. Brown pigment changes little when stretched. A physician will look at the area in different lighting and positions.

Why the under-eye area is special

The skin of the lower eyelid is among the thinnest on the body. Collagen loss, which affects the whole face with age, therefore becomes visible here early: the skin becomes thinner and finer lines appear, and underlying vessels show through more clearly. At the same time, the area moves constantly with every blink and expression, and it is sensitive to friction and allergic reactions.

Lifestyle factors

Short sleep, allergies with frequent rubbing of the eyes, and fluid retention can make dark circles more pronounced. Sleep deprivation makes people look more tired in controlled photo studies, including darker circles around the eyes (see Sleep, stress and skin). These factors rarely cause dark circles alone, but they are the first thing worth addressing.

Topical care

Daily sun protection is the basis for pigmented dark circles, because UV light stimulates melanin production. Ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids have evidence for skin quality and pigmentation in general, and are used around the eyes in formulations designed for this sensitive area. Expectations should be realistic: topical products can improve pigment and texture over months, but they do not change thin skin or hollowing.

Regenerative injections: PRP and polynucleotides

When thin skin and loss of skin quality are part of the picture, regenerative treatments aim to support the tissue itself. PRP for the eyes uses growth factors from your own blood. A small study by Mehryan and colleagues (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2014) found improved color homogeneity under the eyes after one session, while pigment content and wrinkle volume did not change significantly. The authors called for larger controlled studies, and that remains a fair summary.

Polynucleotides for the eyes are DNA fragments purified from salmon that are intended to support skin quality and hydration. Observational studies and clinical experience report improvements in under-eye skin quality, and a randomized split-face study (Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2022) found comparable aesthetic scores to a non-cross-linked hyaluronic acid product. Randomized trials specifically for dark circles are still lacking. The PRP article and the polynucleotides article explain both mechanisms in detail.

What to expect: regenerative treatments work gradually over weeks and are usually given as a series. They are most suitable when thin skin and skin quality contribute to the shadow. Pure hereditary pigmentation responds better to sun protection and topical care.

When to see a physician

Dark circles are usually harmless. If they appear suddenly, on one side only, or with swelling, itching or other symptoms, a medical check makes sense, as allergies, eczema or other conditions can be behind them. Which combination of measures fits your under-eye area is decided in a physician consultation.

References

  1. Sarkar R, Ranjan R, Garg S, et al. Periorbital Hyperpigmentation: A Comprehensive Review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2016;9(1):49-55. PMID 26962392.
  2. Lee Y, Hwang K. Skin thickness of Korean adults. Surg Radiol Anat. 2002;24(3-4):183-189. PMID 12375070.
  3. Sundelin T, Lekander M, Kecklund G, et al. Cues of fatigue: effects of sleep deprivation on facial appearance. Sleep. 2013;36(9):1355-1360. PMID 23997369.
  4. Gilchrest BA, Park HY, Eller MS, et al. Mechanisms of ultraviolet light-induced pigmentation. Photochem Photobiol. 1996;63(1):1-10. PMID 8577860.
  5. Ohshima H, Mizukoshi K, Oyobikawa M, et al. Effects of vitamin C on dark circles of the lower eyelids: quantitative evaluation using image analysis and echogram. Skin Res Technol. 2009;15(2):214-217. PMID 19626722.
  6. Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID 12100180.
  7. Mehryan P, Zartab H, Rajabi A, et al. Assessment of efficacy of platelet-rich plasma (PRP) on infraorbital dark circles and crow's feet wrinkles. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2014;13(1):72-78. PMID 24641609.
  8. Lee YJ, Kim HT, Lee YJ, et al. Comparison of the effects of polynucleotide and hyaluronic acid fillers on periocular rejuvenation: a randomized, double-blind, split-face trial. J Dermatolog Treat. 2022;33(1):254-260. PMID 32248707.
  9. Ahuja R, Khalil S, Galadari HI, et al. Efficacy of Polynucleotides in Periorbital Rejuvenation: A Systematic Review. Aesthet Surg J Open Forum. 2026;8:ojag200. PMID 42979324.

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